The goddess Pomona stands watch over the inner sanctum, her arms outstretched in welcome. Though the temple is laden with ripe fruit, visitors to the shrine are left in no doubt: the oranges are not for taking. Or so we might assume. But, in truth, it’s quite possible that the whole display was put together primarily for the photograph, or, rather, for its dissemination in the press. Perhaps, once the exposure had been made, people could simply help themselves. Either way, the structure is pure theatre, a disposable monument to youth and fecundity that from today’s perspective appears decidedly eccentric.
We can better make sense of the extravaganza when we recognise its disingenuous character. It isn’t, of course, an offering to the goddess of fruit trees and orchards, or even really a celebration of the orange as such, as pure gift of nature. Rather, it is a kind of triumphal paean to the orange as commodity. The particular cultivar that underpinned the rise of southern California’s mighty citrus industry, the ‘Orange Empire’, was the Washington Navel, brought to California from a monastery in Bahia, Brazil. It was this which fuelled the transformation of the dusty L.A. basin into a picturesque sea of aromatic groves.
On the level of theatre or metaphor, the luminous structure stands as an ornamental repository for something more significant: whatever lies within. But it is, of course, a facade, a Potemkin shrine - a Hollywood set like any other.
We can discern something similar operating on the level of political economy. Although the words on the pediment, and the overall excess of the scene, are apparently suggestive of a state of rivalry between various orange-producing counties, this too is something of a front: the assertion of local pride belies a longstanding situation of strategic coordination. In 1893, a powerful growers’ collective, the Southern California Fruit Exchange, was founded. It worked to create a unified image for California citrus, and enjoyed a virtual monopoly for decades. Its great clout was not enough, however, to prevent the systematic destruction of the groves in the postwar period. By the year of this photograph, the heyday of citrus in the L.A. basin was almost over.
The archive of the California Historical Society Collection is home to an extraordinary array of photographs taken between 1860-1960. Browsing the collection one day, I became curious about the large number of records testifying to the Orange Empire. They opened my eyes to a whole period in the economic and cultural history of this region, a crucial but lesser-known stage in the development of one of the world’s most influential megacities.
Why, out of a trove of more than 25,000 records, did I find this theme so compelling? In part due to the vital role that images played in luring would-be workers from the East. Boosters presented the state as the nation’s garden, an ‘Eden’ famed for its Mediterranean airs. But also because some appear to bear witness to a gentler, softer form of enterprise that is not generally associated with California.
The longer you spend with the archive, though, the more the romantic impression conveyed by certain images (of snow-capped peaks, abundant harvests, manual labour) is complicated. These are not windows onto a lost horticultural idyll, but rather documentary evidence of a sprawling plantation economy, factories in the field. Every stage of the production process is represented: seeding, picking, grading and packing. There are sweeping aerial overviews, making clear the regimentation of trees into orderly rows, and close-ups of the fruit as they’re swept along conveyor belts.
Occasionally, such disenchantment is intrinsic, self-contained. It’s all too easy to project onto this gorgeous photogram, for instance. The man kneeling before us, canvas bag slung casually round his waist, stands in for the Gatherer, a representative of the Jeffersonian ideal, attuned to the rhythms of nature. Closer scrutiny of the image throws up an uncomfortable detail, however. Just to the left of the vibrant orange tree, faint yet unmistakable, lies the outline of a mesh fence - a reminder of confinement, property, and, on a broader scale, the man’s own enmeshment within an expansive enterprise reliant upon a hierarchical workforce of racialised wage labor.
The story of the Orange Empire’s rise and fall takes on an added poignancy when one considers that in Riverside, the spiritual home of California citrus, the enterprise grew out of utopian dreams. The first Washington Navels were planted there in 1874 by the Spiritualist Eliza Tibbets who, along with her husband Luther, was part of a wave of idealistic settlers from the East. The community had been founded a few years earlier by the abolitionist lawyer John North. With its abundant sunshine, mild temperatures, minimal frost, and porous alluvial soil, the region was ripe for flourishing. The San Gabriel mountains provided both a suitable microclimate and, in time, a reliable water source for the expanding Garden.
To begin with, though, growers could rely on an apparently inexhaustible flow of pent-up paleowater. The discovery of immense subterranean reservoirs in the 1870s provided a straightforward solution to the problem of irrigation: artesian wells. As this miraculous water source started to dwindle, however, more radical interventions into the landscape were required. The neighbouring town of Ontario was in many respects a pioneer. Its innovative system of irrigation, hydroelectric power and land rights became a model for many other horticultural ‘colonies’ in the surrounding basin. In 1881, the Canadian brothers George and William Chaffey routed mountain streams down to the basin via concrete pipes; the desert tract was soon transformed.
In Riverside, residents experimented with various cash crops, but it was the Washington Navels that proved pivotal. They were unrivalled in flavour, size and sweetness, and, due to a mutation, almost seedless - meaning that growers had to graft cuttings onto other varieties of citrus trees, propagating, essentially, millions of clones. A June 1880 article in the Riverside Press and Horticulturist compared the variety with another batch of Navels imported from Australia:
The marked points of difference between the two Navel oranges lie in their external appearance. Instead of being like the Australian, ribbed lengthwise, it is smooth and more globular. The skin is of a finer texture, has more of a satin like appearance and shows a much higher color, being of a bronzy gold tint.
By the early 1890s, a sea of orange groves ran from the interior counties of Riverside and San Bernardino into Los Angeles. Many farmers switched from growing wheat to fruit. Land prices soared and, among the groves, new towns emerged: Pomona, Corona, Redlands, Highlands.
For the Fruit Growers Exchange, the need to foster a market for the continuously expanding agricultural yield became paramount. As Pierre Laszlo observes in Citrus: a History, oranges had historically been seen in Europe and its diaspora as symbols of opulence. Sunkist embarked on a mission to reshape this perception. Its iconography began to appear on billboards all over the country, and consumers increasingly came to see the orange as health-promoting, a vitamin-rich antidote to the pathologies of urban life.
The advertising strategy necessarily occluded a troubling fact about the conditions of production, that the industry was becoming increasingly dependent on exploited minorities (Chinese during the 1870s, then Japanese, Mexicans and Filipinos) to work as pickers, packers and sorters, who were routinely excluded from the body politic. California’s Alien Land Law of 1913, for instance, forbade immigrant farmers from owning land or possessing long-term leases. In contrast, Sunkist posters frequently featured a Victorian lady or rural maiden bedecked with flowers proffering fruit - an unmediated transaction, direct from garden to household.
Looking at these images from inside packing houses, it strikes me that while the machinery, uniforms and buildings may be obsolete, the underlying forces and rationality remains operative. In the early twentieth-century, the Exchange spearheaded the introduction of what political theorist James Burnham later dubbed the ‘managerial revolution’ into California agriculture. This meant a new emphasis on efficiency, scalability and the implementation of scientific growing techniques, which in turn stimulated new tools for growing, packing and shipping the fruit: mechanised orange graders, box makers, labellers, packing equipment and pest eradicators. A moment which marked, arguably, the crystallisation of factors that are now typical of contemporary agribusiness.
All these factors came together to fuel a highly profitable enterprise which reached its peak in the 1920s and 30s. Then, when it was no longer fit for purpose, when events - sprawl, war, disease, technological change - took over, it was rapidly destroyed. In the decade after World War II, Southern California lost a quarter of its citrus landscape. Thousands of acres of trees were bulldozed every year, and by 1970 agricultural acreage in Los Angeles County had fallen by over ninety-six percent. One of America’s most picturesque landscapes, the visual magnet that had attracted hundreds of thousands of immigrants to the state, had been eradicated.
But as Douglas Casaux Sackman puts it, the fruit trees were not so much destroyed as ‘metabolised by the Growth Machine’, which had simply found more profitable ways to manage the landscape. Great mounds of forlorn trees were burned, chipped and shredded - sold on for firewood and mulch. As can be seen in these remarkable aerial photographs by William Garnett, tract homes spread out from urban centres in waves of state-subsidised development, carpeting the basin, and when there was no more flat land, the surrounding hills were terraformed into landslide-prone terraces. The resulting sprawl became a national scandal.
It’s tempting to see this as the climax of a struggle between industrial and agrarian California. However, as is evident from many photographs in the archive, the Orange Empire was already part of the industrial world. In environmental historian William Cronon’s terms, we could perhaps view its rise as the grafting of a ‘second’, artificial nature onto the given, pre-existing (‘first’) nature. However, since the given landscape was far from untouched wilderness (Southern California was an outback during the Spanish colonial period, consisting of large ranchos), this is also problematic. Ultimately, we should heed Cronon’s caution about the inseparability of these terms: the nature we inhabit is never purely one or the other, but rather a ‘complex mingling of the two.’
References
Francesca Russello Ammon, Bulldozer: Demolition and Clearance of the Postwar Landscape (Yale University Press, 2016)
Douglas Casaux Sackman, Orange Empire: California and the Fruits of Eden (University of California Press, 2007)
Willian Cronon, Nature’s Metropolis: Chicago and the Great West (W.W. Norton, 1991)
Pierre Laszlo, Citrus: a History (University of Chicago Press, 2007)